The balance, though, will need to be adjusted for the track conditions. Turn entry on dirt is important and dictates how well we are able to negotiate the middle of the turn. Just look at the dirt late model cars and how they have evolved.
It all depends on the track conditions, but when the track has grip, it is very useful to take away that rear steer and drive more straight ahead. First I will say I have only been racing for about a year now, so I am still a beginner and any help would be appreciated. Alignment issues present just as serious a drawback for a dirt car as with an asphalt car.
i usually dont comment much on dryslick tracks,dryslick tracks are tricky to deal with,im going to comment on what we do....we run a harder tire with an aggressive prep for bite....not a softner...air pressure is vital for most bite,we never change the setup from tacky to dryslick..we do it with tires/stagger/prep/and air..only adjustments we make on the kart is camber for more or less banking,tires are 100% key to that situation...you can make 10 changes to the chassis and not gain one ounce of speed if the tires arent right,work your tires... How much harder Duro do you normally run for dry slick?
The degree that you need to get involved with aero for your car depends a lot on what you run and where. The general trend in all of circle track racing has been to make changes to our setups and car construction to make better use of the four tires, especially the left front tire.
We almost always need to develop more rear traction for dirt cars. Next Last. Find Dirt Track Races.
What most teams don’t realize is that when a car does not want to turn, the driver must execute a slide and break the rearend loose from the track just to get the car pointed away from the outer wall and down the straight.
hah but seriously try for a balance of lr and rr weight to be as fast as possible. There are several ways to do that without changing the handling at other points around the racetrack. As the car rolls and the chassis changes its height, the control arms change angles and that causes the MC to move. Aero influence varies with the speed of the vehicle. The frontends are wedges that scoop the oncoming air up and over the car. Most people are running clay tracks with probably lots of grip, well I am running on a small DIRT track that is usually dry slick with only one groove and that is on the bottom because all the loose dirt is in the upper groove. endstream
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Check your air I run dirt track to and tires pressure is between 3-6 psi not same the same in all four, Yeah, you should try +.5 lf and -2.75 rf camber. Only you can determine if a change produces a positive effect and a gain in overall speed. Sorry haven't repliedin a while. where your showing plus on Rt Fr that should be negative, and your showing negative on lt fr and it should be positive, seems like a ton of caster also at 16 degree's, how big is the track and what degree of banking? We run short track with similar conditions and when we have too much cross it plows like a bulldozer. What we get is not only speed, but consistency and the top teams know that is the way to victory lane. I'm not a veteran chassis tuner by any means but if I had to speculate based on the info you gave I'd say it has too much cross because the front end had bite when it was tacky.
The setup for slick tracks is with a controlled difference in the balance of the front to rear relationship with the rear desiring to roll more so than the front. Rear loading utilizing large spoilers will also create large amounts of drag. On dirt, the average g-force is much less than on asphalt because the track just does not provide as much grip.
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